20th – 26th June 2009 Paris life

Had a good lie in today then wandered up to a local market just for a look. Unfortunately it started to pour do we nipped in for a roll and drink. Once it lessened we walked back via the river and had an afternoon of chores.

Then followed a series of days sightseeing. We are limiting ourselves to one a day because of the queues and long walks involved, also it’s just nice to walk or cycle through the backstreets (captain’s note: avoiding the shops if possible – not!!). There are lots of small markets and specialist food shops so the menu on board is interesting and far cheaper than eating out. We did try the Latin quarter – in fact we had a Greek meal – but did not enjoy the excessive touting from the various restaurants.

So far we have been to the Arc de Triomphe, Champs Elysees (beaucoup de tres cher magazins!!), Jardin Tuleries, Eiffel Tower (3 hours queuing!!), Versailles, Notre Dame, Sacre Coeur & Montmartre etc, etc. Our feet and legs are beginning to suffer but the saddle soreness is wearing off. The metro is good and cheap and easy to get round on too.

There are plenty of people to talk to on other boats and it is a real friendly and international community in the marina. We are getting used to being a tourist attraction, as the marina is actually a section of the canal many tour boats come by on a regular basis for a gawk.

19th June - Paris

We set of about 10 am (see earlier captain’s note- crews note get stuffed!!) for the final assault on Paris. Very soon the landscape became more industrial and soon we were in the Paris suburbs. While less than 15k as the crow flies from the centre we had 45k to motor. There were some interesting sights especially among the numerous live-aboard boats. Will have to screw Alison's head back on it spun around so much trying to see everything.

Only two locks to negotiate today the large one at Suresnes coming into Paris and the small one to enter the Paris Arsenal marina, which is actually a section of canal itself right in the middle of Paris. We were soon given a space and able to settle down before going for a short local walk. Unfortunately Alison hurt her knee again getting off the boat to tie up. We are moored next to Fantastico again on one side and two Aussie couples on the other (extremely jealous of their imported barbeque, but were given a lesson in the mystical art as compensation!)

18th June - Paris getting close

We left Meulan again at about 10 – (Captain’s note for crew - must try to get going earlier) but not without some excitement. Overnight a lot of river debris had collected between the boats which were tied together. Solent Clipper left first only to get about 20ft of tree trapped between its prop and rudder. We left as they were sorting out only to get a blocked engine water intake. We drifted for about 10 mins while Jim cleared it. Luckily there is about ½ knot of current so Alison was able to steer. All cleared then onwards, another lock, a refuelling stop in an old but still working quarry and then on mooring for the night in Rueil-Malmaison a sort of Paris suburb next to a large office/restaurant complex.

A good mooring, right opposite the Maison Fournaise where Renoir, Monet Degas and Manet used to hang out. You can tell its near Paris, 4 beers and a pichet of wine 52 Euros – we was robbed!!

17th June 2009 on to Meulan

Left about 10 with Solent Clipper heading for planned stop at Limay. We were disappointed when we arrived. The pontoon was dangerous with large holes and cleats torn out and it was next to a non too salubrious park and busy road. Jim tried the sailing club opposite for a mooring but there was no-one in. We decided to move onto Meulan where we tied up alongside Asian Smile, another Moody, to be later joined by Solent Clipper. The three of us ended up rafted one to the other on the small pontoon, much to the interest and amusement of the locals.

16th June 2009

We took a cycle ride with Jenny and Ian from Solent Clipper over to Monet’s house and gardens at Giverny which is close to Vernon and spent a few hours wandering around with the tourist hoards in bright sunshine. The garden wasn’t perhaps at its best but interesting all the same. Alison and Jenny went onto the impressionists’ museum for a bit more culture while Jim and Ian went for a beer.

15th June 2009 - Vernon still

Big change in the weather woke up to it pouring down. Fantastico left this morning and we expect to see them in Paris. Today we went shopping and basically pottered around on the boat.

14th June Vernon

Today dawned hot and sunny so Jim put took down the winter canopy and put up the Binmini. This was its first outing since we bought it 2 years ago. Today we did some chores and pottered on the boat, during lunch one of the American's we saw on the hotel boat Bizet in the lock recognised us on our morning and wandered down to the pontoon and had a chat, still didn't get the beer. Late in the afternoon we went for a bike ride over the bridge to Vernon, not a particularly pretty town despite being so close to Giverny but had a quick look around the local Foire. Just when we were about to have dinner a lifeboat arrived and considered mooring against us, luckily they decided better of it and moored against the big motorboat nearby. After dinner Hugo and Renee from Fantastico came over to share some wine and we had a very pleasant evening sitting out on deck, with the exception of the moment when the wine went flying all over the cockpit, due I might say to the huge wash from a passing barge that was going up the river really too fast and not because anybody was three sheets to the wind.

13th June onto Vernon

We were torn between staying and moving on but after a slow bike ride (I'm sure the bum is getting less sore!) decided to move on. A slow chug in the sunshine saw us arrive at Les Andelys with a view of staying overnight and visiting Richard the Lionheart's castle the next day. As the small town "marina" is silted up we moored to an old green jetty which was also recommended in a recent article in Practical Boat Owner by a couple doing a similar voyage. We met 4 English bikers who were touring the area and after a chat sat and relaxed on board for a few minutes. We were then visited by the local police, who were most apologetic but said we could not stay as the berth was only for the large hotel ships and if we did we would get a parking ticket. This was despite Bizet, one of these ships, being moored and taking up the whole of the main quay nearby. It was now late, about 5:30 and the next stopping place, Vernon, was above the next lock which closed for business at 7pm. Warp drive was engaged and we neared the lock at 6 30 to see Bizet storming up behind. Rough justice, he was told to follow us into the lock.

This was an "experience" as we sat at the end of the lock watching this monster that could only just squeeze in through the gates approach. Alison fought the helm admirably against Bizet's bow thrusters while we worked our way up the lock, chatting to the American's on deck who were highly amused by the spectacle. We were offered beer and food but couldn't quite reach - never mind. Out of the lock we had a gentler chug to Vernon where we moored next to Fantastico at the lovely local yacht club. We were glad to be there and did not even mind the partying of the regatta that was in till 1 am.

12th June - Rouen to first big lock

We departed Rouen at about 11 (early start for Alison!!) and motored against the tide for about ½ hour to the fuel barge. We had to potter around for another 30 minutes while a peniche filled up before we could get on. We then motored all day in nice sunshine to our first big lock at Amfreville. All on our own it looked huge and in a few minutes lifted us the 9m to the non tidal Seine. A quick check in to register ourselves with the lock keeper and we are off into relative tranquillity. After about a kilometre (measurements on the rivers are in kilometres rather than nautical miles) we turned right into a beautiful backwater, Le Mesnil de Poses. We passed Fantastico who were already moored and tied up to a town supplied pontoon for the night near the floating barge museum (open Sundays only!!). Bike ride, wine on Fantastico, dinner, calm - wonderful.

11th June Rouen

The day started a bit cloudy so we decided to have a wander around the town and go to the Cathedral. We had passed through Rouen many times and never stopped so it was a good opportunity to make its acquaintance. The Cathedral was spectacular it was started in the 12th century and had been added too in the subsequent century's. Richard the Lionheart had a bit of a hand in some of changes as Rouen was an English stronghold during the hundred years' war. The latest changes were due to bomb damage in the last war by the allies. At this time many of the ancient stained glass windows were lost and it's such a shame, especially as they have been replaced with plain glass.

We then wandered down to the square where Joan of Arc was burned at the stake. A modern church has been built in the square next to the ruins of the old church. The shape of the building represents the flames that burnt poor old Joan. There is a tall cross the apparently marks the actually spot. Some of the buildings around the town are very old and there is an interesting tourist trail which is DIY with a pre-recorded guide.

That evening we went out to eat with Jenny and Ian to a local Chinese. On the menu were frogs legs, you could have them in sweet and sour sauce and a variety of other sauces. None of us fancied them however they were served. The meal was typically frenchiefied but pleasant all the same.

10th June Off up country

We were ready to leave Honfleur at 8.30am our Dutch neighbours waved us off and we met Jenny and Ian on Solent Clipper who had spent the night against the wall in the outer basin. We entered the lock alongside 3 fishing boats. The water dropped about 4 metres, we left the lock without any problems, luckily the weather wasn't as bad as yesterday and the water was relatively calm, it was about half an hour before low water. The trip up the Seine between Honfleur and Rouen is not particularly pretty. Of course there are some chateaus and little villages, some with cottages of thatch which made them look very English. Many of the thatches had grass growing on top a bit like wispy baby hair or the wispy bits of hair on a bald man's head. Clearly this was a feature that seemed to be 'de rigour' for the area, no idea why? Although the guide books said there were some boat stop offs we didn't really see any suitable other than possibly Caudebec so we pushed on to Rouen. A number of large barges and ships passed us going both up and down river. The wash wasn't too bad for us but when the first one passed Ian and Jenny they had a bit a problem with their mast, which needed further securing, so we slowed down whilst they sorted that and they we were on our way again.

Disappointingly as we got further up river the rain arrived and by the time we got to the docks at Rouen it was chucking it down, so donning waterproofs we checked out the first marina, which although we had been given to understand looked near the town centre is seemed to us not to be and also the area was very industrial. We moved on to the next marina which was nearly opposite the Cathedral so much better. We had to raft up which we did against Hugo and Renee's boat 'Fantastico'. We'd met them at Le Harve, they had left a week earlier than us but they had been held up due to waiting for some post from their home in Belgium. So we all tied up about 5pm soaking wet by the time we had finished. After visiting the office we popped onto 'Solent Clipper' for a cup of tea, which naturally turned into a couple of glasses of wine!! Then back to our boat to have dinner, still raining! Looking forward to going into town tomorrow so hoping is stops by then.

9th June Honfleur

This morning Jim fitted out the new clear washboard with a new heavy duty stainless steel lock as our old wooden washboard had an easily broken lock. We visited the little marine museum and it was little, but at least we follow in esteemed footsteps as the Queen had visited the place in 2004 (lots of photo's of her visit plastered the walls. After lunch although it was showery we tried to visit the Boudin Museum; it was closed being Tuesday!!

So back to Katlen picked up our bikes and decided to go and have a look at the cruise liner that had come in overnight. We thought it would give us an opportunity to gawk at the tourists as they had at us (would be good if they paid us a euro for every photo they took with our boat in it!). However, clearly we weren't organised enough as the liner started to leave before we got anywhere near so had a little ride to the lock. On the way back we met Jenny and Ian checking on the times for the bridge lift so they could bring their boat near the lock to leave with us tomorrow morning at 8am…uhh another early morning. Later Jenny and Ian came over so that they could get their vignette and print it so that like us they didn't have to bother with the office in Rouen.

8th June - Honfleur

Nothing special today. After moving the boat to another mooring because the owner was coming back to his berth, we did a few homely chores, including the shopping at Le Clerc (which was luckily open, I say that 'cos the rest of the shops being a Monday were shut!). After lunch we took a bike ride along the coast..avoiding as many steep bits as we could, hopefully we'll both be a lot fitter after this trip!! The houses are very pretty and the beaches a wonderfully sandy. The area would be a good place to come on holiday with little kids.

7th June Honfleur

Went out walking to find a supermarket at the commercial end of Honfleur. We started out about half eleven thinking that we would get to the supermarket half an hour before it closed. Unfortunately, although we found LeClerc, it wasn't open as we expected from our experience in Parnac. So we starting walking back. On the way we passed Ian and Jenny from Solent Clipper who had just had their mast taken down. Also alongside them were Margaret and Stanley on Maverick, who we were to meet later at dinner.

Having refreshed ourselves with Jenny and Ian and heard their tales of de-masting we went back to Katlen for lunch. Spent the afternoon pottering and then Jenny, Ian, Margaret and Stanley arrived for dinner.

Margaret and Stanley are from Scotland, they were returning home having done the same trip upstream as we about to embark on downstream. They had spent the last 11 summers sailing around the Med, down as far as Turkey and Greece. Now they were on they way back home to Scotland having just sold their boat to a Viennese man and his brother who intend to sail to South Africa.

Internal Photos

Had a request to post some internal photos so here they are, not too untidy but the cupboards are of course also stuffed to the gunnels, LOL.

Honfleur

Having checked the weather, Saturday (6/6), it looked a today to set off for Honfleur which is about an hour up the mouth of the Seine and gives a good starting point to take the river up to Rouen.  We set off about 10am, the sea was slight but the boat at times really rocked and rolled from side to side with some of the bigger waves, wouldn't like to be demasted in a heavy sea, it felt like the worst kind of theme park ride. 

Arrived at Honfleur and entered the lock (no incidents this time) about noon.  We tied up against the wall to wait for the inner basin entry time (4.30pm) so had a bit of lunch and went to explore part of the town.  We are now in a lovely berth in the inner basin and have great views of the town from our bedroom and the galley.

Going Naked!

Since arriving in Le Havre we've met several boats also getting ready and heading south via the canals.  Everyone is doing things slightly different and it will be interesting to hear all their various tales if we meet up enroute. On Wednesday 3rd June we headed round to Chantier Naval.  Stephan, the owner, came on board and took us to his yard in the inner harbour  at about 4pm.  We were also had company in shape of a motorboat 'Bianchini' who was also going to the yard to have its propellers changed.  To get to the yard we had to go into a lock and 2 road bridges were raised for us. We spent the rest of the evening stripping the boat of as much of the mast equipment.

The crane didn't arrive until 2.30pm next day (5/6) and Jeremy on Bianchini had his boat lifted out first so that the mechanic could work on it whilst our mast was lifted.   Our mast was finally  lifted about 4pm and layed on the side for us to pack it up.  We finally finished about 10pm having stopped for dinner for about half an hour.  The mast will get taken down by road to Port Napoleon in the South of France, in about 2 weeks time. The boat did look naked without all its rigging and the mast, but still plenty of sunbathing space now, once we have clead all the boot prints off!!

We could leave the yard until Friday morning as we had to wait until the morning bridge lifts.  As we entered the lock we were told to move up to the very front of the lock as we would be sharing the lock with a dredger.  This was our first experience of being in a lock with a big ship, no doubt it won't be the last on our journey.  

We have entered locks many times and had no problem, but this time it was a little different as we had been told to keep to the port side of the lock, unfortunately there were no lines, wires or bollards to tie up against on the side, we were too low in the water to easily climb off the boat so Jim had to try and hold the boat off the side.  The wind was very strong and also the water flowing in the lock so it was quite difficult.  

Finally a guy with a walkie talkie, who we took to be someone from the port appeared on the side.  We thought he might be helpful and take a line and put it round the ship bollards....mistake!!! clearly he was not a sailor or knew anything about ropes and little boats, 'cos he took the line and instead of handing back to us proceeded to try and wrap it round the bollard.  Of course it keep slipping as it couldn't be tied off only on itself, the boat moved further out into the lock and the gates we starting to open.  Finally the frenchman decided to tie off the line to itself, helpful NOT! we then had to pull ourselves in and then Jim managed climb onto the side and went and sorted the line off...our assistant had by then bu*****d off  from whenced he came.  Luckily we managed to sort ourselves out Jim got back onto the boat just as the road bridge opened we let go the line and set off for the marina.  Luckily we had no more problems and spent a quiet night in Le Harve.